FEZ, Morocco, April 23 (UPI) -- I departed Prague via Paris for Casablanca -- excited and nervous at the same time. It would be my first time in Morocco, a country which stirs fabulous emotion in me.
I passed the hour layover in Paris by checking my emails, nearly missing my flight. Arriving in Casablanca, I hurried through the airport, with only 20 minutes to spare -- catching the flight to Fez. I was surrounded by pilgrims in white jellabas returning from Umrah (the out of season pilgrimage to Mecca).
For many, Morocco encapsulates Bogart and Bergman in "Casablanca" (bizarrely it was not even shot on location). For others it is James Stewart and Doris Day in Hitchcock's "The Man Who Knew too Much." Still others associate her with Bing Crosby and Bob Hope, the Marx Brothers -- or the magnificent Marlene Dietrich. My generation associates Morocco with "Lawrence of Arabia." I associate the country with Crosby, Stills and Nash's "Marrakesh Express." My students see the Oscar winning "Gladiator."
But none do her justice. In reality, the Kingdom of Morocco is even more stunning, grand and enchanting -- some form of Shangri-La; and her people are disarmingly friendly.
I had been invited to the Imperial City of Fez by Dr. Evelyn A. Early, the counselor for public affairs of the U.S. embassy in Morocco. By training she is an anthropologist and a fluent speaker of Arabic. I had met Evelyn when she was stationed in Prague. We would often speak about issues relating to the Muslim world, and often found ourselves agreeing on the aims, but not the methods, of achieving the peace.
On this occasion I had been invited to see a new dormitory for rural girls in the commune of Zrarda some 50 miles from Fez. The program, sponsored by USAID, helps rural girls from becoming school drop-outs. By building dormitories for up to 25 girls close to the middle schools they attend, these girls -- often from poor families and unable to afford the commute -- are able to continue their education.
On the drive to Zrarda, accompanied by local newspaper reporters, I was taken by the apple and olive trees lining the curving rural highway. Every so often, I would notice a vineyard somewhere up on a hill. There were amazing rock formations -- imposing and majestic -- which reminded me of Spain or Turkey. At some point we passed the Allal el Fassi Dam. Built in 1955, it is one of Morocco's largest dams and named for a leader of the Istiqlal Party -- whose leaders, often in exile abroad, fought for independence. In fact, Morocco gained independence from France only 50 years ago.
Returning to Fez, a journalist explained to me that Ambassador Thomas Riley and his wife had helped to rebuild houses in al-Hoceima some years ago after a devastating earthquake. The U.S. ambassador is known for being an advocate of public-private partnerships and outreach. Undersecretary of State Karen Hughes might be pleased to know that Ambassador Riley and Dr Early are good examples of her "public diplomacy" concept.
I dozed off along the way, awakened by a jolt.
In front of me stood the Imperial walls of Medina -- dating from the 9th century and the oldest part of Fez. I got out of the car, and along with Dr. Early and a guide, walked the winding passages and alleyways -- a living medieval metropolis. The roads traverse up and down. Occasionally, a donkey carrying goods would brush by (the passages are too small for carts and cars). Artisans, bakers and vendors dot the lanes of this frenetic and crowded place -- one cannot help but feel transported back some 1000 years.
Fez, a population of some one million, has more than 100 mosques. Only Muslims are permitted in these houses of worship. The most famous is the Moulay Idriss. From the outside looking in, one can see walls covered in mosaics of soft green tones -- the traditional color of Islam. A long slow glance upward reveals a truly imposing minaret. Fez also has an ancient university dating before the founding of Oxford and Cambridge, making it the world's oldest. (Something, I must admit, not sitting well with this Magdalen College man.)
During lunch with the journalists, representing several Arabic and French-speaking newspapers, a conversation developed about religion. Moroccans are quite proud of their tolerance towards other faiths. They seem especially proud of their long history and kinship with Jewish communities. Many Jewish Spaniards escaped to Morocco during the Inquisition and were welcomed openly. Fez has a well-preserved ancient Jewish quarter. Its new town is from the 13th century. The modern town, dating from the early 20th century, is distinctly marked by French colonial influences.
As I sit composing my final thoughts for this piece, the day is coming to an end. I hear the rain falling outside my open balcony door, the trees rippling -- the cool spring air rushing along my face and feet. It feels good.
While beauty abounds, Morocco is still in search of the rule of law. King Mohammed VI, then 35, ascended the throne in 1999 after the death of his tyrant father. He is infinitely more tolerant and modern.
But Morocco is still an experiment in democracy.
I hope she succeeds.
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(UPI Columnist Marc S. Ellenbogen is chairman of the Global Panel Foundation and president of the Prague Society for International Cooperation. A senior associate at Syracuse's Maxwell School, he is based in Berlin and Prague. He may be reached at [email protected])
