Subscribe | UPI Odd Newsletter Subscribe NEW ORLEANS, June 3 (UPI) -- The Fair Grounds Race Course is inhabited by so many ghosts and oddities and legends that I can't walk onto the property without being a little awestruck. Of course the gleaming white clubhouse -- reminiscent of the Advertisement 1930s, a breezy haven for men in Panama suits and straw boaters -- is not really 131 years old. The track has had a long succession of grandstands and course layouts as the owners experimented with Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds, pacers, trotters, jumpers, steeplechase races, quarter horses, and even a brief flirtation with cavalry races. To give you some idea of the sheer variety of racing at this track, they have official track records for every distance between two furlongs and two miles. The Fair Grounds is the original royal seat of winter racing, third oldest track in the country, dripping with so much history that real horseplayers Advertisement treat it as a place apart. Actually I think you can even make a case for it being the nation's oldest track, if you combine its history with its predecessor, the Union Course, also called the Creole Course, which had racing at the same location as early as 1852. Saratoga Springs, normally regarded as the nation's oldest track, didn't come along until 1864. Pimlico opened in 1870. Churchill Downs is a spring chicken, debuting in 1875. This is such an ancient location that the Bobtail Nag, of "Camptown Races" fame, raced here in 1859. (The horse's real name was Flora Temple.) At any rate, you can pick your legend. This is the track where General George Custer ran a stable of horses at the first official meet, in 1872. (Grand Duke Alexis of Russia was in attendance as well.) It's the first track to institute pari- mutuel betting, in 1873, when the rest of the nation still had independent bookies chalking odds on blackboards. And when the Yankees finally went home after Reconstruction, Ulysses S. Grant stayed behind for the first full season. In the more recent past century, Al Hirt was the track's bugler -- before he became famous, Advertisement of course -- trumpeting the call to the post ten times daily. (Today the duties are handled by Les Colonello.) Since New Orleans was always a great horse town and a great gambling town, the Fair Grounds was the place where the super- rich met the super-sleazy. John A. Morris, of the Revolutionary War Morrises, whose filly won the first Belmont Stakes and who later built the Morris Park track in New York, was a founder of the Louisiana Jockey Club and always kept a winter stable at the Fair Grounds. (His descendants were still running horses there into the 1990s.) But it was also the place where Pat Garrett, of Billy the Kid fame, worked as a trainer in 1893, and where Frank James (Jesse's brother) worked for Samuel Hildreth, owner of the largest stable, during the 1902 season. Diamond Jim Brady was a regular during the race track wars of 1906. Jack Dempsey and Gene Tunney gambled here between sessions of beating each other up. Winnie O'Connor, one of the greatest early jockeys at the Fair Grounds, was once suspended for discharging a pistol in the jocks quarters. It was that kind Advertisement of place. The Damon Runyon rowdiness has vanished, of course. During my visit, the track has been taken over by Jazz Fest, largest concert event in the world, which is a good thing, because Jazz Fest beverage concessions are what kept the track plugging along during the dark days after the 1993 fire that destroyed the grandstand and clubhouse. (It was an electrical fire that started in the crawl space between the racing office and the jockey's quarters on the second floor. Through a superhuman effort, the track was open again 60 days later in temporary facilities, and the new structure opened in 1997.) The Krantz family, involved with New Orleans racing for most of the past 50 years, nursed the track back to health, orchestrating a lot of innovations like off-track betting (10 locations), simulcast betting, Internet betting, and even phone betting, but it still lagged behind the other Louisiana tracks because the state specifically forbade it from having slot machines. Harrah's New Orleans, the only land-based casino in Louisiana, cut a deal with the state to have the exclusive right to slot machines in Orleans Parish. Tracks elsewhere in the state got the right to their own slot machines five years ago. The Advertisement result: their purses ascended, and the Fair Grounds' declined, with the all too predictable result of horsemen deserting the track in favor of richer races at Louisiana Downs and Delta Downs. Fortunately for the Fair Grounds, Harrah's also agreed to a $100 million annual tax which it couldn't pay, leading to two bankruptcies, and during each bankruptcy Fair Grounds General Manager Brian Krantz was able to negotiate a few goodies for himself. Currently he has 700 video poker machines, mostly at his OTB locations--not such a big deal, since the game is not popular in Louisiana and the machines are set for bars and taverns: $2 bets, $500 maximum payout. But within about two months, if all goes according to plan, he'll be able to install 300 Las Vegas- style slot machines. According to a deal he worked out with Harrah's, he can add another hundred each year, eventually having as many as 700 provided Harrah's meets certain revenue goals. "And we need it," he says. "It was a bummer of a meet." The recession, added to the stiff competition from slots tracks, forced Krantz to lower purses this year ($262,000 a day, compared to $276,000 two years ago), then he lost part of his Advertisement simulcast business when Magna purchased the tracks in Maryland and started broadcasting Calder Race Course instead of the Fair Grounds. (This means the Fair Grounds lost out on simulcast betting at both Hollywood Park and Santa Anita this year.) The Fair Grounds still managed to hold on to its major stakes races. The biggest one is the Louisiana Derby, with a purse of $750,000, frequently won by a Kentucky Derby contender. They have three other Grade 2 races--the Fair Grounds Oaks ($350,000) for fillies, the Explosive Bid Handicap ($700,000) on the famous turf course, and the New Orleans Handicap ($500,000)-- as well as two Grade 3s: the Silverbulletday Stakes and the Risen Star Stakes. Risen Star is, of course, the famous colt who won the Preakness and the Belmont in 1988, but most of the horses associated with the Fair Grounds are remembered only in New Orleans -- for example Pan Zareta, one of the most admired horses in history, yet little recalled in the rest of the country. Pan Zareta was the winningest mare on turf (76 victories) in racing history. Bred in West Texas, she spent most of her career at the old Terrazas Park track in Juarez, Mexico, where she was Advertisement so dominant that she occasionally had to carry up to 146 pounds. In 1917, after six seasons of racing, she died of pneumonia in her stall at the Fair Grounds, and because she was so popular, she was buried along the inner rail by the 16th post, next to a giant live oak. Unfortunately, the live oak had to be removed when the turf course was constructed, so Pan Zareta's body is actually under the racing surface. The grave marker was moved 30 yards to the new infield, though, and the winning jockey in the Pan Zareta Handicap, held every February, is still expected to lay flowers beside her tombstone. Black Gold is the other famous Fair Grounds horse. It is said that, when Black Gold broke a foreleg in a 1927 race and had to be destroyed, the entire city went into mourning for two days. Black Gold was famous for winning four derbys as a three-year- old: the Louisiana Derby, the Kentucky Derby, the Ohio State Derby, and the Chicago Derby. (This is before the Triple Crown was such a big deal.) But he was especially loved at the Fair Grounds because he had made his debut there, winning his maiden Advertisement 2-year-old race at three furlongs on January 8, 1923. (How times have changed. No one today would race a 2-year-old in January, much less eight days after he becomes eligible to race at all, and the three-furlong race seems to have disappeared forever. The Fair Grounds, however, is the last track in America that still requires schooling races for young horses, every Wednesday morning.) Black Gold's owner, an eccentric Oklahoma oil heiress named Rosa Hoots, pitched a fit when the Kentucky Derby tried to pay her with a check. She only accepted cash. (The Derby eventually complied.) She tried to capitalize on Black Gold's fame by putting him out to stud when he was still young -- but alas, he had three years of sex without siring a single foal, so veterinarians pronounced him sterile. When he returned to racing, he was heralded everywhere he ran -- but never again won a race. His youth was gone, and his condition had probably suffered on the stud farm. He was making a game effort in his final race, the Salome Purse, when he broke down. He, too, is buried under the turf course, and his marker is also adorned with flowers by the victor in the annual Black Gold Advertisement Stakes. The days when the Fair Grounds was the winter haven for the wealthiest owners in New York are long gone (the Morrises were the last blueblood East Coast family to race here), but the track still has that elite cachet. The jocks' room lives with the ghosts of Johnny Longden and Eddie Arcaro and Willie Shoemaker. The fancy new corporate suites recall the heyday of the Alfred Vanderbilt stables, the Walter Chrysler barn, and the King Ranch horses. It's the track where Triple Crown winner Whirlaway won the inaugural Louisiana Handicap before a crowd of 20,000. Fortunately for New Orleans, the Krantz family is more than aware of that history, and determined to preserve it. Krantz's mother was involved in racing as early as 1956, when she worked in the admissions office at the old Jefferson Downs in nearby Kenner. After that track was destroyed by Hurricane Betsy in 1965, she was the only employee retained for the transition period, becoming assistant general manager shortly after the rebuilt track debuted in 1971. A year later she became general manager, and by 1986 she had parlayed enough stock options so that she and her son could own a controlling interest. Advertisement The 1980s were not good to the horse racing business. First the IRS eliminated the tax shelters on Thoroughbred investments that had made the sport so healthy for so long. Then Louisiana went through the oil bust, when lots of companies left the state. With neither track doing that well, the Krantzes purchased the Fair Grounds in 1990, but riverboat gambling was legalized in 1991, causing an immediate 30 percent dropoff in business. By 1992 the Krantzes were shutting down Jefferson Downs to consolidate purses as best they could. They were just starting to recover when the fire hit. All 2,000 barn stalls were full for the latest meet, with most horses from Texas and Louisiana, and a large contingent from Kentucky and Illinois. (The two leading stables are those of Nelson Bunker Hunt, the Dallas oilman, and Merwyn Sher, a St. Louis grocery-store magnate.) I asked Krantz if he misses the days when the Vanderbilts and Whitneys and Morrises made the trip south, but he said it's a different world anyway and they probably wouldn't like it. "We do have all that," he says. "The Fair Grounds has the deep-rooted history and tradition that goes with the city of New Advertisement Orleans. We've got that mystique. We have some of the flavor of Saratoga. We're part of the history of racing. But look at how the market's changed. We have to appeal to the highest per-capita horseplayers, and for them it's a numbers game. Some of them run extremely sophisticated arbitrage systems on computers that can pour money into the last two betting cycles before the starting gate opens. The significant bets now are the Pick 3, the Pick 4, the Superfecta. The core players want all those bets. It's only the casual bettor who makes win, place and show bets. And, of course, the people who work directly with the horses -- they'll single a horse. But everyone else is looking for the big payoff." In a way, it's almost sacrilegious to turn the Fair Grounds into a "racino," as they're being called these days, but it's happening nationwide and it's almost unavoidable. Track owners realize that slot-machine players and horse bettors are two separate species, and that the machines are merely a source of income and not really a way to develop new horseplayers. "It's true that the slots players and the horse players are two distinctly separate demographic audiences," says Krantz. Advertisement "There's no significant crossover. So you have to insulate them from each other. If the slot people are comfortable, they'll come back. We've found that TV and audio race coverage is intrusive for them, so we don't show the races in the machine gambling areas. Our mission is to enhance horse racing's fortunes. Slots are a means to an end. It's a resource that needs to be exploited." Krantz doesn't seem like a superstitious guy, but he's doing everything he can to restore the Fair Grounds to its past glories, including riding every year in the Endymion parade at Mardi Gras. Endymion is the god of fertility and eternal youth, but at the Fair Grounds the name has an even deeper meaning. A horse called Endymion won the 1963 New Orleans Handicap. * E-mail Joe Bob Briggs, "The Vegas Guy," at [email protected] or visit Joe Bob's Web site at www.joebobbriggs.com. Snail-mail: P.O. Box 2002, Dallas, Texas 75221.