Hard times but Ramadan goes on

Salem Darweesh, one of thousands of unemployed Palestinians in the Gaza Strip, took a deep breath while pointing at his eight children and wife and said, "Look, Ramadan is coming soon and I don't know where to go, what to do and how I will be able to feed this army."

Ramadan is an obligatory 30-day month of fasting for all Muslims over the age of 10. From sunset to sundown Muslims all over the world, including Palestinians, neither eat nor drink nor smoke to focus instead on re-devoting themselves to the principles of Islam. This year the fast began Nov. 6.

After each day of deprivation follows a night of feasting, family celebrations that often spill out into the streets.

"Ramadan is the month of good, blessing and boon," said Sheikh Hassan Abu Nasser of Gaza, referring to the fact Muslims usually help each other during Ramadan. The better-off often lend assistance to their poorer relatives and neighbors.

Two years into the intifada, many, such as Darweesh and his family, need help this year. Sa'eed Mudallal, in charge of employment for the Palestinian Authority, said the local unemployment is about 67 percent. He and his family live off food supplies they receive from international aid organizations.

In general, however, daily life bustles on during the fast. Traffic jams the streets, offices are open much of the day, mosques and stores are full of people while most women wear veils.

Two hours before people break their fast, they usually go to the markets to buy what they need, all kinds of soft drinks -- alcoholic drinks are prohibited -- and meat, vegetables, greens and fruits.

Everyone rushes home in anticipation of quelling the hunger pangs that have dogged them most of the day. The streets then empty for the evening meal.

"It is not accepted during Ramadan not to fast or to break the fast in the middle of the day for no reason unless you are sick or traveling long distance," said Sheikh Abu Nasser.

In many parts of the Arab World, what follows the evening meal are ebullient gatherings and celebrations in markets, squares and other community areas. After two years of fighting Israeli troops and policies, however and the hard times it has brought, Gaza's revelry is much more subdued.

Darweesh, 42, worked in Israel for 15 years but once the intifada began he was cut off from his job. A travel restriction on Palestinians in Gaza has kept him there since, part of the estimated 70 percent of residents who live below the poverty line.

"Sometimes I think of taking to the streets and begging money from people, or to commit suicide in order to rest because I'm unable to bring even the bread to my children," Darweesh said.

The days of Ramadan are particularly hard, but it's not the hunger or thirst. On ordinary days people don't care if they can join their families around the table, he said and don't care if there is cooked food.

"During Ramadan, people not only care but also insist that there should be all kinds of allowed soft drinks, soups, green salads, meat, rice, fruits and desserts on their dining table," Darweesh said. But he can't provide them for his family this year.

After breaking the fast, people usually go for a walk in the streets on Gaza, especially in the Remal neighborhood, the only fancy neighborhood in town with up-market stores, ice cream shops and gardens. Some parents are able to treat their children to desserts and drinks. Others simply stroll the streets or wander the gardens. Children love to play with fireworks, to the annoyance of some elders, who sit at home.

Several restaurants and hotels on the seaside of Gaza put up what everyone calls "Ramadan tents." The wealthy usually go there to spend the evening, smoking Hubble Bubble pipes, or what is called in the Palestinian term "shisha," drinking coffee and listening to Arabic music.

"Every day of Ramadan for me is a holiday," said Hassan Safadi, a 14-year-old boy who lives in the neighborhood, adding he likes when people break the fast and go out in the evening for fun.

Near Gaza's southern border, across the narrow swath of Israel from Egypt, everyday life is more grim after a series of Israeli incursions. Tanks and bulldozers enter those areas where there are militants who attack Israeli army lookout posts, and convoys of Israeli army vehicles shepherd cars of Jewish settlers driving in the area.

"Ramadan this year won't be different from last year. Last year, we spent all our nights in the streets running away from bullets and shells," said Khali Kahlout of Rafah.

After 30 days of fasting, Ramadan ends with Eid Al Fitr, or the Feast of Breaking the Fast, where people celebrate their triumph of self-control and the generosity of Allah.