Rootless Cosmopolitan: Berlin Beat

BERLIN, June 5 (UPI) -- There are many periods of German history that color peoples' image of Berlin. Some people think of the Nazi era or the Cold War. Others may envision Germany as it was before World War I when it was under the dominance of the Prussians. But freethinkers and Rootless Cosmopolitans like to think of the Berlin scene of the 1920s.

Berlin BH (before Hitler) was a magnet to the creative and cutting edge of Europe's 20th-century trendsetters. Once again, Berlin is the avant-garde capital of central Europe, with all that is urbane and cool emanating from the epicenter of former East Berlin.

The squatters' paradise of the early '90s is paving the way toward chic cafes and happening hipster hangouts. Here are some suggestions if you want to taste the flavor.

For resources, drop by a DJ shop (see previous Rootless Cosmopolitan columns about shopping in Berlin) and pick up a copy of Flyer mini-magazine, which outlines all of the latest happenings in the world of electronic music.

First it was Mitte, then Prenzlauer Berg, and now Friedrichshain is the latest underground hot spot in the former East Berlin.

With its apartment blocks, and the broad boulevard of Karl Marx Allee running through it, Friedrichshain was once the section of East Berlin that was to be the Stalinist showcase for the socialist paradise of the former capital city of East Germany. Today, it is the section of the city that is still cheap enough to attract starving artists and budding musical talent.

For more mainstream commercial style music (at least by Berlin standards), check out Casino. Here, you will hear DJs by the likes of Electric Indigo (Vienna) and DJ Belt spinning the latest tech house tracks or Der Dritte Raum playing electro funk. Be sure not to miss the Casino House Crew on Saturday nights.

Deli is another hot Friedrichshain haunt. With eclectic performances of anything and everything under themes such as "Minimalist Flavor" from Buff and Raumagent Alpha to the "Tomato Comic Presentation" of Latin Techno courtesy of Barox, to live acrobatics, this place is always going off.

The best place of all in Friedrichshain is the OstGut/Panorama Bar, that is, if you're preference is techno. With its throbbing bass lines and all the trappings of its technical mastery, Techno is like a religion in Berlin and has been since the fall of the Wall.

Prenzlauer Berg: This dilapidated, chic 19th-century neighborhood, whose decaying warehouses are being rapidly converted into cool houses of convergence, still packs hipster punch in the Berlin nitelife scene.

The No. 1 spot for drum 'n bass is Icon. Fusing fresh acts in the big beats genre, it really stretches beyond drum 'n bass to encompass hip hop, break-beat and everything in between. In the break-beat arena, Friday nights bring in "Superbreaks meets Perfect Lounge" from the likes of Metro, Emisz and MC Mace.

On Saturday nights, drum 'n bass reigns with "Recycle" via such top notch talent like Kabuki and Alley Cat.

Mitte: Although it's gone a bit touristy for East Berlin, Mitte still maintains scenester status on the Berlin beat. Ten years ago, it was a squatter's paradise, where free raves, house parties and artist collectives melded to give birth to the new Berlin. Now, it has gone urban upscale, but still maintains its exotic edge.

Sage Club is the place for house music. Friday nights are funky with such acts as Furic and Nasty Niyaz. Saturdays host "House Expressions," which is a bit more eclectic, with a whole range of DJ characters you're sure not to have heard of before.

For the obligatory techno experience, check out Sternradio and Tresor/globus. Sternradio steers toward tech house from the likes of Martin Landsky, Phonique and Matthias Tanzmann.

Tresor/globus is more hardcore. With themes such as "We love hart techno!" and "Mental Industries," this place is serious about its music. For electronic listening music via laptop and turntable, hit WMF. With an ear toward drum 'n bass, WMF is an interesting and definitely avant-garde alternative.

To catch a glimpse of '90s East Berlin, check out Tacheles. One of the last remaining squatters' artist-collectives in Mitte, Tacheles still retains the post-East bloc edge and allure of reunification romance. This dilapidated, falling-down structure is a huge ruinous remain of a 1920s-era department store. The lot in the back used to house a huge outdoor work space for experimental artists, whose metallic twistings and odd objects (including a missile launcher) formed a maze which was used as an outdoor club during the summer months, where impromptu live music sessions would emanate and explode. Since then, the outdoor part has been closed, but the interior still remains a cool laid-back place to listen to chillout DJs while decompressing over a drink.

For a communist cheesy reminder of 1950s East Berlin, step into the Roter Salon. It is seemingly and eerily frozen in time, a fascinating glimpse of the old grandeur of socialist style.

While the trappings of the theater and bar ooze early 20th-century Mittel Europa, the bar scene today blinks back to pre-unification 1980s Berlin ambience, where the mullet-headed locals left behind dance to DJ-spun Eurotrash pop hits.

LISTINGS:

Friedrichshain

1. Casino

(U-Bahn Warschauer Strasse) Muehlenstrasse 26-30

2. Deli

On the Schillingbruecke entrance on the Spreeufer

(U-Bahn Ostbahnhof)

3. OstGut/Panorama Bar

Muehlenstrasse 26-30

(U-Bahn Warschauer Strasse)

Prenzlauer Berg

1. Icon