Subscribe | UPI Odd Newsletter Subscribe WASHINGTON, Nov. 28 (UPI) -- In winter, my grandfather used to walk miles to school over steel-cold country roads, a baked potato in each pocket to keep his hands warm. At least, that's what he would contend whenever I tried to squeeze between his armchair and the roaring fire. But there was that twinkle in his eye. This is the potato time of year, probably the best match in the run of seasons and foods that befit them. Of course, it's wonderful to sit in the sun with a perfect strawberry crushed on the tongue. But when the wind is shaking the doors and bending the bushes, a baked potato oozing butter has the edge in satisfaction. Advertisement It's the comfort factor. Bottom line, food that soothes wins out over food that stimulates. The potato may have been an early import from the New World, but it fought a long hard battle before the Old World would accept it. In England as late as 1733, writer and garden designer Stephen Switzer observed, "That which was heretofore reckon'd a food fit only for Irishmen, and clowns, is now become the diet of the most luxuriously polite." Advertisement People can get fussy about potatoes. It's what tends to happen once the luxuriously polite espouse anything. In Europe, even the humblest of supermarkets will stock several varieties. Some look like witches' fingers. Others are the size of a plum. Each will have its own distinctive flavor and be reserved for a particular cooking purpose, one variety bought for its fluffiness, another for its waxy appeal. They are all extremely delicious. But so is the basic big white or big red lump that sits in piles in supermarket chains. Especially when paired with butter or cream. Feel free to snort at the mention of these fats, but don't stop reading. I am not advocating you eat this food-marriage-made-in-heaven every day. You would become bored as well as overweight. But don't deprive yourself. When you feel the need of luxurious comfort, reach for a potato dish. You will need nothing else. Here are some of the best. Recipes serve 4 Pommes Dauphinoise You probably know this, but here is a quick, super-luxury version 4 medium large potatoes, peeled 1 large clove of garlic, unpeeled generous 1/3 pint whipping cream (enough to come level with the tops) salt and freshly ground black pepper Advertisement Preheat the oven to 400F. Butter a gratin dish. Stand a mandolin or 4-sided grater in it. Grate each potato on the single-slot cucumber slicer into fine slices. Grate the unpeeled garlic clove on the Parmesan-cheese grater side, discarding the husk that will be left in your fingers. Season the pile then roughly toss the garlic and potatoes together and spread flat in the dish. Pour over the cream and bake for about 30-45 minutes till gold on top. Porcini and potato gratin This is a more Italian version 2lbs. peeled and thinly sliced potatoes 5 oz. dried porcini (Italian mushrooms available in good delis) 4 oz. Portabello or field mushrooms, thinly sliced (optional) 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely minced 1/4 pint chicken stock or water olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper Soak the porcini overnight in enough water to cover. Remove, rubbing each gently under water to remove any sand, and strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve lined with damp paper towel. Simmer porcini in soaking water till tender. In an oiled oven dish, layer potatoes and mushrooms, seasoning with the garlic, salt and pepper as you go. Pour over soaking water, or 1/4 pint chicken stock. Glug a good drizzle more olive oil over the top and bake in a 350 F oven for 60-90 minutes till brown. Serve with a green salad -- nothing more. Or to accompany grilled steak or roast beef. Advertisement Melting cheese potatoes 1 lb. potatoes, scrubbed (Yukon Gold or another waxy variety is best) 2 cloves garlic, peeled and slivered 1 tbs. butter 2 tbs. olive oil 4 oz. Fontina, Taleggio or other soft cheese handful fresh thyme leaves + 1 tbs salt and freshly ground black pepper Slice the potatoes into coin-thick rounds. Heat the oil and butter in a heavy-bottomed pan, then add everything except the cheese and the tablespoon thyme and toss to coat in the oil. Lower the heat, cover and cook gently for 40-50 minutes, stirring once in a while, till soft and gold. Sprinkle the thyme and lay thinly sliced cheese over the potatoes, cover again for 2 minutes to melt. Good enough just from the pan with a salad and crusty bread.
